Sana Altaf

SRINAGAR, Apr 14: The wavering moods of the weather have not been the only change in Kashmir's winters. Dress codes and the life style of the people has also undergone a sea change. Food habits of the people are also altered. People prefer cuisines like "harissa" and "haukh suen" (dried vegetables) for winter. Though "harissa" persists as people's favorite cuisine, "haukh suen" can largely be seen disappearing.

"Haukh suen" is the traditional cuisine of Kashmir. Before the advent of winter, different vegetables are dried in the sun for days. After having dried properly, the desiccated vegetables are stored for later consumption. These dried vegetables are called "haukh suen" in Kashmir.

"Haukh suen has existed since ancient times in Kashmir. I remember my grandmother and mother preparing it for the family when I was a child. After my marriage I too started preparing haukh suen and I still do" says Hajra Begum, 70 year old. According to Hajra, "haukh suen" is kept in store particularly for winter, though it may also be consumed in summers.

"It's a person's choice whether to have it in winter or summer," addsÿ Hajra who prepares "haukh suen" every year. Besides being prepared at home, "Haukh suen" is sold at the shops and pull carts. "I love haukh suen. It tastes really different. I buy it from the market because I do not have the time to prepare it at home" says Summiyah Gani, a teacher. Different kinds of vegetables are dehydrated to form "haukh suen." Brinjal, tomato and gourd are most commonly used.
ÿ Nonetheless, "haukh suen" is now vanishing from Kashmiri cuisine. People no more prefer eating it. The sight of vegetables hanging from the ropes by the windows and verandas of houses is disappearing. ''My mother used to make haukh suen and my whole family used to love it. But since we came to know that it causes cancer we have totally stopped taking haukh suen," says Anum, 26 year old. The packed food, now easily available in the markets, have replaced traditional "haukh suen." Instead of "haukh suen," packed food like cereals are kept reserved for winters. "Haukh suen is dangerous for health. I keep packed food now. It's a better and healthier option," said Nasreen, 36 year old house wife. She added that though her children wish to eat "haukh suen," she has never cooked it for them.
The sales of the shopkeepers and vendors selling "haukh suen" has also shown decline. People no more spend money for this cuisine. "I am selling haukh suen since 25 years. In olden days people used to takes tons of it. In autumn I used to have really good sale," says Mohammad Yousuf, 67 year old. He added that the sales have declined largely now and that he is planning to start a new business now. ''People have really come to believe that eating of haukh suen leads to cancer and that is why we have very less sales now," says Rafiq Wani, a vendor selling "haukh suen."

According to physician specialist, Dr Abdul Majeed, the consumption of "haukh suen" can contribute to cancer, particularly of stomach. "Some researches have been done abroad which revealed that sun dried eatables can lead to cancer." He added that drying vegetables in sun causes chemical reactions in them, which produce substances leading to cancer. However, Dr Majeed's comment seems somewhat contradictory to that of Dr Majid Mushtaq.

Dr Majid, junior resident in SKIMS said, "I do not have any knowledge about the side effects of haukh suen. I doubt if any research has been done on this subject."

[Kashmir Times]

Posted on 15 Apr 2009 by Webmaster